Originally published in TrikkeWorld Magazine
The all-new Trikke T7 is a fully convertible model that can accept 6-8 inch poly-urethane wheels and 8.5 inch air tires. This carving machine is presented at an affordable price from $169 to 179. Assembly requires a bit more than what we are used to with Trikke, but one needn’t fret. The Trikke T7 shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes to set up (and that’s being generous).
For those with a phobia against assembly manuals, check out the video, (Trikke T7 “What’s in the Box” Assembly)
For those who need further clarification, here’s a step-by-step guide to building your new dream machine.
- Lay out all the parts from the box. Account for the fork, handlebars, front structure, two trailing arms, three wheels and one main axle. You will also receive a tool kit consisting of two 5mm and one 3mm hex wrenches. Remove all zip-ties and packaging. Review the manual before starting, it only takes a couple of minutes. Once the parts are laid out, accounted for and tools are ready.
- Assemble the front fork unit first by removing the axle from the fork and set the wheel in place. There are two spacers, fit one on each side of the wheel. Loosening the two upper mounting bolts, will allow the fork to spread open, making the spacer installation easier.
- Do the same with the rear wheels. If you are having issues inserting the wheel axle, slip a wrench in the opposite end of the wheel to center the spacer in-between the wheel bearings. While you are doing this, try to slide the axle through the wheel. Make sure your spacers ore in place and bolt up tight.
- At this point, lay the trailing arms and front structure (steering assembly) parts upside down to make your job easier. With the cambering mechanism yolk already mounted on the front structure, slide the trailing arm into place with the appropriate washers on either side of each cambering bushing.
- Apply a dab of white lithium grease on the yolk ends, this allows the bushing less resistance while installing. Once the trailing arms are mounted, flip the trikke over and lay the brake cables underneath, keeping them out of the way for now. Raise the front structure to align the main axle bore. Insert the main axle through the bushings of the first trailing arm, front structure and the remaining arm. Use the provided 5mm hex wrenches to tighten the axle. Again it’s a good idea to dab the main axle with the white grease for easy installation. Note – If things are tight, loosen the yolk retaining bolt a few turns. This should allow the path of the axle to line up perfectly. Once the axle is in and bolted, retighten the yolk bolt.
- Now that things are taking shape, insert the front wheel onto the steering end by aligning the push pin and tighten the two bolts with a 5mm hex tool.
- Mount the handle bars slightly angled forward at about 30-45 degrees. Make sure the push pin on the fork is facing forward and wheel axle is behind the fork. Rotate the brake levers forward to a comfortable riding position.
- Lay out the brake cable so they cross over each other, on opposite sides of the front structure, above the trailing arms. Route the cable around the front structure to the brake lever. Fit the brake cable head into the lever slot, making sure to associate the correct side. Slide the cable housing into the guide stay mounted along the backside of the front structure.
- Turn your Trikke upside down to finalize the brake adjustment. Run the bare cable through hole on the canti-lever brake pad. Loosen the retaining cap with a 3mm hex tool. Remove one bolt and slip the cable under the retaining plate, then snug down the two bolts. Pull the cable tightly. The wheel should not move because the brake pad is making contact with the wheel. Bolts are slightly loose in order to pull the pad away from the wheel about an 1/8 of and inch. Now lock down the bolts.